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| RESTAURANT REVIEWS: Click on Headline to Go to Review... Marsh Shapiro's Nitty Gritty, Madison, Wisconsin Eating Your Way North (All kinds of things, all over Wisconsin). The Green Forest, Wausau, Wisconsin Three Little Pigs, Sarona, Wisconsin (now closed, but GREAT REVIEW!) North-Shmorth! When you Pass Through Madison, Hit the Nitty-Gritty -- You'll Love it! by Ray Smith I've always loved touting the great 'eats' they have up here in 'God's Country' (that's northern Wisconsin for those of you who have just arrived from Mars). . .but I still enjoy my business/family trips down to Mad City (that's Madison for those of you who have just arrived from Mars), and since so many mega-thousands come through Madison (that's Mad City for those of you who have just arrived from Mars) on their way up here, I'd like to suggest for an enjoyable 'R&R' stopover, there's nothing better than the Nitty-Gritty. Located at 223 N. Frances St., (608) 251-2521, (a block from the absolutely gorgeous new Kohl Center sports facility), in the midst of Madison's hustle and bustle, the Nitty-Gritty never disappoints. At least as enjoyable as the excellent fare, is the owner/host, Marsh Shapiro. A Madison icon, Shapiro, was for years a television personality, hosting a children's show called 'Marshall the Marshal,' and as a TV sports announcer, and basketball broadcaster. This guy has a personality of absolute 'diamonds.' Sure, 'The Gritty' as it's called, hosts a constant stream of politicos, sports personalities, sports teams, and 'insiders' from around the world (the walls are festooned with photos, including adults who once appeared on Shapiro's Marshall the Marshal show as kids) - - BUT, one of the great things about Shapiro, is that he treats everyone - - anyone - - students, seniors, families, whomever, with the same warmth, banter and happy smile as the 'more famous.' I like that a lot. The Gritty (newly renovated and expanded) is housed in a 100 year old former grocery store, and country-western bar. Shapiro has owned and operated it for nearly 30 years. The Nitty Gritty most famous as 'Madison's Official Birthday Bar.' On your birthday, you come in with your family or friends and get 'freebies,' including a free memento 'birthday mug,' which enables the birthday 'boy or girl' to drink free beer or soda all day, balloons, a cake, a loud rendition of the birthday song, and lots of happy banter. Governor Tommy Thompson celebrates his birthday there, a 100+ year old woman celebrates her birthday there, five groups of triplets and one set of quads celebrate their birthdays there. Indeed Shapiro has hosted nearly 200,000 'birthdays' at the Gritty. The Gritty has a warm, open ambiance, and while bustling never seems overly noisy or raucous. Laughs, music and sounds sure - -but never obnoxious. So much for ambiance - -a T-Rex like me goes there to eat - - Without doubt, the best sandwiches, salads and soup anywhere - - you've got the gritty burger - - big chargrilled burger with special sauce, and an absolutely excellent brick cheese - - my mouth waters. Last time I had the new prime rib sandwich (Shapiro always had a grilled ribeye, but he told me that the quality varied too much, so he dropped it in favor of the prime rib). . . pure heaven! Tender, moist, on a wonderful kaiser roll, I had it with some melted brick cheese and grilled onions, . . .and (I told you I was a T-Rex!), a fantastic vinegar/oil based cole slaw 'invented' by Marsh's wife Susan, AND ( I told you I was a T-Rex) an order of fries. Fabulous! And then after all was done Marsh brought over the 'world's smallest chocolate sundae' -- just the right size, with a cup of excellent joe. You can get taco salads, Caesar salads, mixed salads, chef's salads, and big sandwiches of turkey, and ham, and fish, and tuna, and veggies, and cheeses, and a dozen others, and combos of everything, and lots of great appetizers (the mozzarella sticks served with a marinara sauce should not be missed), and oh yes - -the best kosher hot-dog served anywhere - - and they're big. Now, while I don't drink, there's a wonderful circular bar (separate from the dining area), and a patio, and a second floor being readied as I write this for even more visitors. I did notice that if you can think of a beer, Marsh has got it. Sam Adams, Foster's, and about 2,000,000 others, including 18 on draught, along with just about any other beverage you'd want. Cost? Very modest, for the quality and size of the servings. You can get a great sandwich combo, with fries, a pickle and cole slaw for $6-$8.00. There's also, always, a couple of great soups and chili, to boot. So the next time through/in/about/from/going to Mad City, stop in at the Gritty. Make sure you meet Marsh - - it's worth the cost of the meal (by the way, the world's BEST joke/short story teller), even if you don't eat it! Phone: 608-251-2521. Eating Your Way North... By Ray Smith The restaurant business is ephemeral. Not a day goes by that some eatery simply disappears only to be reincarnated as another. The "in" menu changes almost daily, depending on what the medical profession says is healthy (that also changes daily); or the particular rage of the moment, e.g. parsnip quiche, or grilled leg of tree stump. My wife tried some tempura sagebrush when we were in Idyllwild, California a couple of years ago, and although she said it was verytasty, she burped sagebrush for the rest of the evening! I believe the public would be better served (pun intended) if restauranteurs would address "quality," "taste," "service," and "affordability" -- items more often than not, missing. But even in this age of instant gratification and mediocre food, a few restaurants rise to the top, overcoming the competition, as meccas of excellent food, great service, and decent price. No kidding: Value for your dollar! Don't faint. Those restaurants still exist in Badgerland. After ten years of roving the state and writing restaurant reviews, I've come up with my own special list of various types of foods or restaurants I found to be the best in Wisconsin. While I haven't covered all types of food, what I've provided should give you a wide selection of items that will give you hours of pleasant memories, while you pick your teeth and smile. HAMBURGERS I'm a hamburger maven. Like many Americans, it's my favorite food. I've been to all of the "Best Hamburger in Podunk" places, from those "best in the world" surveys taken by newspapers and magazines around the state. My only comment would be that the owners of some of these places must have a lot of friends voting for them! Freddie's Saloon in Hurley is the first. Right on Highway 77, next to the post office, in Hurley. Run by a husband and wife team, Harry and Donna Falbe, who migrated to Hurley from Beaver Dam. To begin with, the place is absolutely immaculate! I mean, as in "you can eat off the floors." A long old-fashioned bar. Some tables. Bathrooms that are so clean, you're almost afraid to use them. And, like most of the places I've selected, Freddie's owners are "on site," which makes a big difference, and puts these places head and shoulders above any chain or absentee-owner operation. The first time I went to Freddies, I was returning from a trip to Bessemer, Michigan, and had to use the bathroom. I went in, asked them if I could. They not only said yes, but gave me a glass of ice water to quench my summer thirst, and wished me a good day when I left. I then used their house phone. I bought nothing. Warm, pleasant people. I promised myself the next time round I'd stop for lunch. I'm glad I did. The hamburger (or cheeseburger) is a half-pounder (my size, folks. Something a big mouth like me can get his teeth into, literally). The charcoal flavor of the excellent quality beef is absolutely perfect, when placed on the warm, chewy, scratch-baked-right-now bun. With grilled onions, served with generous portions of fresh lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and chips on the side, it is the classic American hamburger. My mouth waters as I think about it. It cost $4.95 in 1995, and is the biggest bargain this side of anywhere. A marvelous and delicious experience, which never changes! CHINESE FOOD There must be 2,000,000 Chinese restaurants in Wisconsin. At least that's my perception. Madison must have half of them, but I opt for a small place in Stevens Point which puts all others I've ever experienced (and that includes Hong Kong) to shame. The House of Hunan (now closed) was THE BEST Chinese Restaurant we have ever found. Always delicious food. The food always sat right in our tummies, and we'd often order additional take-out so we'd have something good to eat at our home in northern Wisconsin. Located on Business 51, in a strip mall, about a mile into Stevens Point, when you get off of U.S. 51 going either north or south, House of Hunan was owned by a very talented woman named Wen Shen and her husband Tak. Wen is from Taipei, and comes from a long lineage of restauranteurs. It shows. Wen and her husband are delightful people. Both thin as rails, and untiring, 16-hours- per-day workers. Their food was glorious in taste, extremely high in quality, and very affordable. The menu included almost any type of Chinese food you can imagine, and even provided Japanese and American cuisine if you'd like. For me, I enjoy pushing and shoving in the buffet line, while watching the U.W.-Stevens Point students scarf up the daily buffet, which at $4.95, is the quintessential answer to a college student's prayer: Where can I get a decent meal, stuff myself, and still only pay a few bob? This is the place. The lunch buffet (a buffet is also served on Sunday evening and costs $6.95) always has egg rolls, won tons, soups (hot and sour, egg drop or Chinese veggie (one of Wen's own inventions). Also, fried wontons stuffed with cream cheese, and tiny shrimp, flavored with some great seasonings, which I can't decipher. There is a full fresh salad bar, for anyone who wants it, although I've never seen anyone take it. The main hot buffet always has some variety of Chinese rice noodles, fried rice, steamed rice, and at least half a dozen main dishes, such as moo shoo pork, Mongolian beef, chicken in vegetables, Chinese meatballs (how they get them so literally "crisp" on the outside, and yet moist and flavorful on the inside is a mystery to me), beef and broccoli, etc. Desserts are excellent almond cookies and fortune cookies. My wife and I had a couple of personal favorites. I always have loved egg foo yung, but have found most of what I've eaten to be pitiful in taste, and usually served in a glutinous sauce. Not here. Egg foo yung is not on the menu, but will be prepared when requested. The portion is mammoth. Three gigantic patties which are so fluffy, you'd think they had been blown up with an air compressor. Beautifully plated, and presented golden brown with an exquisite hoi sin sauce, the taste is indescribable. You can have it prepared with any type of filling: Chicken, pork, beef, shrimp, or veggie. My wife normally ordered a simple dinner of beef chop suey. Before you laugh, this is very special. Like all dishes at Hunan, meat is more plentiful than vegetables, and everything is prepared quickly and fresh. Nothing left standing around to be glopped onto a plate for some unsuspecting diner. I always started my visit with a bowl of the house vegetarian soup, in which I dump in a healthy dollop of steamed rice. The soup has Chinese vegetables, is light, and with the rice, makes a perfect opening. Meals run from $4.00 or so for lunch to around $10.00 for dinner, depending on the dish. You get soup and an egg roll, and a fortune cookie with each dinner. The place was clean, service is quick and efficient, and carryout orders are welcome. For anyone seeking a new adventure in Chinese cuisine, House of Hunan in Stevens Point is the place. SMALL CAFES I used to have a list an arm long of excellent small cafes around Wisconsin. I'd wend my way all round the state and revel in great coffee, great, simple food, and wonderful banter with the friendly locals. Alas, so many of them have either been bought out, or gone out of business, that I'm literally down to my "short list" of cafes. It seems those plastic-fronted chains, where the pert little server uniforms normally are too tight, and too emblazoned with color and decorative trim; and where the "country" specials lack anything special, while the prices make you think you've just eaten in a five star Michelin restaurant in Paris or Lyon, have now taken over the cafe industry. But. . .there is one that I still cherish: Bonnie's in Phillips. Phillips is located in Price County right on Highway 13, and is easy to find. Bonnie's is open early and late. Bonnie herself has been in the restaurant business for years, and now has branched into catering. And, while she's no longer at the restaurant full time, you can be sure she's always calling or running in at various times of each day to make sure things are running smoothly. Great cafes have much in common, and Bonnie's is no exception. An excellent cup of coffee. Breakfast served any time, without a sneer. Homemade breads and pies. Great soup. Simple, American food, done the way grandma used to. Modest prices. Large servings, and plenty of friendly banter, because the locals all hanker to these places. Some of Bonnie's "masterpieces" include huge bowls of different types of scratch soups. I very much enjoy the chicken dumpling (a northern Wisconsin mainstay), or the beef-vegetable. Plenty of crackers, and, when served with a sandwich, makes a great daily special for a couple of bucks. The pies run the gamut from apple to banana cream, and most everything in between. Omelets, waffles, pancakes all are scratch made, and uniformly good. Daily specials (and there always are), include things like roast chicken (normally a Sunday special), meatloaf and mashed potatoes, hot beef sandwiches, spaghetti, tacos, sub sandwiches, and soup. The variety is endless. Bonnie's always has some type of senior citizen's special. I like that. It makes me feel good to know that most anyone can afford to eat in this place. The place has that small town Wisconsin flavor to it. Clean bathrooms. Two separate dining areas. One for smokers. One for non-smokers. There's a counter... true Americana. Scratch malts, shakes and sundaes, made the old fashioned way... .literally. The folks in Phillips are wonderful and friendly. I've yet to go into Bonnie's without striking up some type of conversation with locals. Lots of flavor of the area here, and the rich heritage of the people is evident. You'll be hard pressed to spend more than five or six bucks for a meal, unless you want a steak or something like that. The only thing that saddens me is that Bonnie's is one of the last of these types of places I know, and I continually travel the entire width and breadth of the state looking for them, without much success nowadays. I've known many, and now, like in Paris, the small cafe and bistro is quickly going the way of the buggy whip. Wisconsin is the poorer for it. FISH FRIES Ahh, the grand Wisconsin fish fry. Something all of those "gaijin" -- that's Japanese for "foreigner" (or figuratively "foreign devil" for those of you who never read USA Today) -- from around the country have no knowledge of. But it's something that we in Wisconsin cherish. Fish fries, like cafes, have pretty well been taken over by larger restaurants or chains. Seems every eatery in the state offers some type of so-called "fish fry" on Friday nights. But I can tell you, few if any, measure up. Most of the nouveau fish fries consist of some type of ocean fish. Now there's nothing wrong with cod, haddock or pollock. They're all decent, but if you're going to talk about the classic Wisconsin fish fry, there's only one fish you serve: lake perch. And with the cost of lake perch, and its almost non-availability, you can count the places that still serve it very quickly. I've had two, maybe three top fish fries in the state. A couple of them are all-you-can-eat, and run $6.95 (maybe $7.95 now), which includes the classic french fries, rye bread and butter and cole slaw. When I go to these places I almost bust them out, and almost bust my britches scarfing down this most delicate and tasty of freshwater fish. Some of our northern favorites include: The Eagle River Inn and The Chanticleer, Eagle River, Wisconsin; Bear's Den at Black Bear Lodge in St. Germain. The Green Forest Restaurant in Wausau -- It's Greek to Me -- and more! By Ray Smith Don't you just love the phrase 'family restaurant?' Whose family? Godzilla? The Sex Pistols? Some of these self-proclaimed family restaurants appear to cater to a clientele just this side of making an appearance on America's Most Wanted; and the others are oh so 'plastic' (the big chains, where the head of the 'family' is probably eating at Le Cirque or Spagos while you choke down the overdone, overpriced rubber chicken with peas - - served 'family style'.) BUT, once in a while you, like anyone else, may hit a 'winner.' I've got one. The Green Forest Restaurant in Wausau (one of the gateways from southern to northern Wisconsin and vice versa) calls itself a 'family restaurant,' and it is. . .for all kinds of families -- kids, seniors, singles, and yes, even Godzilla. We pass through Wausau about once a month or more. On this trip, we got off of the main highway and went searching for places to eat. We spotted this place, on Grand Avenue (Highway 51 South, about five minutes from the main downtown area of Wausau), and thought we'd give it a try. What a pleasant surprise. Large, comfortable, clean, smoking and non-smoking, with a big old-fashioned counter. . .a smiling husband-and-wife-team-owners, and some great service. We sat down and noticed at least half-a-dozen specials on a menu board. The menu, in addition is unbelievable. (I firmly believe that if you want to eat it, the Green Forest serves it). This particular day, I ordered the $9.95, 16 oz. t-bone steak special... served with soup, salad, potato (four different choices), veggie, rolls AND dessert (choice between Jell-o, rice pudding, tapioca or spumoni) it was so much even 'python jaws' (that's me) couldn't finish it all. Tasty, quickly served, generous portions and a price that puts any fast food meal to utter shame. My wife, a delicate and very choosy eater, opted for the fish fry, homemade crisp hashbrowns with onions, and a made-to-order Greek salad. She loved every mouthful. Again, a great deal of the meal had to be happily schlepped home. The Greek salad had plenty of the 'expensive ingredients' -- you know, a literal handful of yummy Greek olives (the big places usually plop one on the plate); gobs of feta cheese; plenty of cucumber and tomatoes, and a true Greek dressing. Tasty, healthy, and filling. After paying, we spoke to one of the co-owners. We found out that as usual, the best restaurants have 'here-at-all-times-owners' who make sure things run well. I was impressed with the fact that there are ALWAYS a number of senior citizen specials (there were a lot of seniors in the place), and kids specials, and daily specials of all types. The wife is of Balkan heritage, hence the familiarity with Greek food, which is a specialty at the Green Forest. Things like gyros made with freshly cooked lamb. . .things like that, all authentically prepared. The next time I was in Wausau, I stopped in again, and had one of the daily luncheon specials -- a mammoth Greek salad, and an authentic Greek spinach pie. The spinach pie was done up in the mystical triangle shaped, delicate and light filo dough pastry... beautifully seasoned (two large pieces), and the salad, and the roll, and the butter, and the large iced tea... all cost me $5.50; and included any additional tomatoes I asked for. We've been back many, many times since then. I particularly recommend the Green Forest for families. The prices are moderate. The selection is almost overwhelming... I mean that. The choices and variety of foods, ranging from pancakes to steak, homemade desserts, soups, daily specials and everything in between are unbelievable. The quality is high. The food tasty and well prepared. The ambiance pleasant. The servings generous. No one could ask for anything more than that. Every one of us has been through the hideous experience of paying double-digit dollars for a couple of fast food sandwiches, fries and a soft drink! One visit to the Green Forest and you'll ban stopping for those greasy spoon burgers... whatever your screaming 'little nippers' may say about the 'free' (yeah - - -sure!) little goober doll that comes with every $100.00 purchase! lt's worth getting off the highway and take the extra fifteen minutes on your way north or south (Wausau is the literal gateway to northern Wisconsin, and once past it you immediately start hitting the northern forests). This is a 'hidden winner,' and you, like us, will make it a permanent 'rest/recuperation/eating' spot north or south from whenever you're coming or going. The Three Little Pigs Restaurant in Sarona, Wisconsin... By Ray Smith Editor's note: This restaurant is no longer open, but we loved the review so much, we're leaving it in). SOOOEEEE!! Sarona? Say-what? Yep... Sarona, Wisconsin. A dip in the road right off of US 53, about 10 miles (as the pig flies) south/southeast of Spooner in Washburn County; and at the south end of Sarona's Long Lake at the junction of County M & D is a real "happening." I mean, as in "worth-the-drive:" The Three Little Pigs Restaurant and Swine & Dine Saloon. How's that for a moniker? But if the name brings you a chuckle, the people who run the place and the food will bring you a series of smiles, happy burps and pleasant memories. This is one great restaurant! Run by a California transplant named Judy Goodenough, who married a local, Dale, in 1978, the Three Little Pigs has garnered awards for years, and for a truly out-of-the-way place is pretty well known; particularly among the quiche/BMW/white wine yuppie/wannabe set from the "Cities" (Minneapolis/St. Paul to you extranjeros), who long to wear a bib, tear apart a couple of racks of mouth watering barbequed Iowa pork ribs, and lick their fingers in public without being seen. The restaurant is cozy and small. Half a dozen or so tables, replete with fresh flowers, and one of the most fantastic collections of nouveau/art deco wall-hangings, artifacts, and art I've ever seen... particularly the pig memorabilia. There's a bar (as in "Swine & Dine Saloon") where food is also served, and where most of the locals eat, happily gawking at the outsiders who flock by them to the main restaurant. One of the Saturday evenings I was there, I was dressed nouveau-grungy and smelled like Cujo, and stood around the bar gawking, too. Here walks in a couple of blowed-dried, finger manicured, dressed-to-the-nines-in-custom-leather-biker-clothes city-slicker couples. They marched right by us to the main restaurant, semi-holding their noses, and we all quickly looked outside: Sure enough. . .two custom Harleys, with sissy seats, and enough chrome to blind the eyes. Real bikers these people. . . I like Judy and her "old-man," because they're hard workers, outspoken in a very pleasant way, and he's the only local I've ever seen, besides me, and the Native Americans, who wears his hair in a pony tail. And do they turn out food! The restaurant won a recent Wisconsin "Beef Backer" award for excellence, as well as first runner-up in Wisconsin's "Dairy Best" restaurant competition. Both highly deserved. The place features wood roasted, Iowa pork loin back ribs and chicken roasted naturally without any chemicals. Judy's BBQ sauce is memorable. She'll douse it over anything you want -- and it's good over anything you want! Judy's own garden supplies most of the veggies and herbs for the superlative salad bar (lots of unusual fresh goodies like pasta salads, sweet and sour fixins' and the like) and homemade-from-scratch soups. The garden also supplies the rhubarb and strawberries used in the homemade pies, and the flowers for the tables. Judy uses only the finest ingredients, serving generous portions, and always real Wisconsin dairy products in everything she prepares. There's an unbelievable selection of Italian specialties such as shrimp agnolotti, breast of chicken Cicero, cheese ravioli, florentine shells and five cheese lasagna. Daily specials run the gamut from a full rack of ribs, to hand-cut, fresh eye of prime rib. The steaks are all handcut and legendary for their flavor and tenderness. Dinners include baby red potatoes or saffron rice, soup du jour, homemade rolls and breads, and the salad bar, which includes homemade French and blue cheese dressings. And if you don't want fresh pie for dessert try the fantastic scratch three layer carrot cake or three layer German chocolate cake. One thing that Judy doesn't crow about, but should, is her homemade jalapeno creamy cheese appetizer, which is served with every dinner. I want to tell you, after the dip, some crackers and soup, I was full before I even went to the salad bar. And of course, if you want more of this or that, just ask. Judy obliges with a smile. The last time we were there, my wife had the barbequed chicken and I opted for the large barbequed rib dinner. Our guests each enjoyed a wonderful grilled ribeye. The soup we had that evening was a superlative, very lightly brothed minestrone. Superb. Like fish instead? How about mild or fiery cajun catfish or walleye, or maybe shrimp scampi? And if you're really not that hungry try one of the 15 or so different sandwiches from what is euphemistically called the "bar menu," which includes a burrito grande, grilled fresh tuna steak, Santa Fe chicken breast, and what seems about three hundred different kinds of hamburgers, including guacamole and BBQ, and of course real Texas chili. You can nosh on things like battered cheese curds, beer battered onion rings, or nachos. If you can't find something to eat at the Three Little Pigs, then you should stick with an Ultra SlimFast diet drink. The Three Little Pigs Restaurant is open from about Memorial day to the end of October. Prices range from a $3.95 hamburger to a range of from about $10-$19.00 for a dinner. The main dining room is smoke free, but forget about non-smoking in the bar. This is northern Wisconsin!). Try this place. It really is a very memorable and most pleasant experience for all reasons, in all seasons, and the owners are really exceptional folks. For information or reservations call 715-354-7955. Watch for more reviews constantly being added.... |